Ashley Rhodon,
Lol. We've all been there. As we ventured into the world of cake, we all made an American "buttercream" at some point. The vast majority of us took one bite, gagged, and scream, "In 200,000 years of humankind, someone, somewhere must have come up with a better icing than this crap!" And so the journey into real buttercream begins.
American "buttercream" is the only crusting icing. Crusting "buttercream" requires shortening and LOTS of powdered sugar. That's why it's so sweet. The massive amount of powdered sugar gives it the "crusting" effect.
While you can do some modifications to a meringue based buttercream it will never be a crusting buttercream. I'll talk more about modifications to create a more stable buttercream below.
Meringue buttercreams work well under fondant. My preference is for an Italian buttercream under fondant as it's a bit more stable.
Ive never personally used all meringue powder in a buttercream. It is routinely used in small potions as a stabilizer in royal icing and American "buttercream". I know it is used at times as a replacer for liquid eggs. I just don't have any experience with that and I don't know anyone who has.
A couple of things to keep in mind when making a meringue based buttercream.
Emulsion: buttercream is emulsion. An emulsion is just two or more things beaten together until they are suspended into each other. They are things that normally do not blend well together. In this case, fat and egg whites. So you just really need to have faith as you mix a buttercream because it will absolutely, without question, at some point during the mixing look like a soupy mess. So it's very important that you not panic, do not turn your mixer off, do not try to add anything to try to thicken it. I always tell bakers making a buttercream for the first time to set a timer for eight minutes, then turn and walk away. Do not even look in that bowl again until the timer sounds.
Butter: a high butterfat butter works best as it has less water. This goes back to the emulsion. You're mixing fat in liquid which do not normally mix well together. So the less water in the butter, the better your emulsion. I prefer Plugra brand which is about 82% butterfat in it. A standard grocery store brand of butter is about 80%
In my own experience I found you can actually have too much butterfat. I used Vermont Creamery cultured butter a couple of times. The butterfat is 86%. The buttercream was too soft to pipe.
Eggs: an average large egg white is 30 grams. I find this to be pretty consistent among brands with the exception of Trader Joe's--or at least my Trader Joe's. Their large eggs are a tad smaller overall, so their whites are about 28g on average.
Sugar: I only use cane sugar. I've used both ultra fine baker's sugar and regular granulated sugar for these buttercreams. My preferred brand for granulated, Baker's, brown, and powdered sugars is C&H. I will use Domino cane sugar since it is part of the same company as C&H.
Cream of Tartar: Cream of tartar not only stabilizes the egg whites, but you get a much smoother and fluffier meringue. And I have never once over beaten egg whites using cream of tartar. This is one step I will not miss. I've noticed no difference between brands. The last time I purchased it the national brand name was out of stock, so I bought the Safeway store brand. No differences in performance.
Ratios: by knowing the ratio of sugar and fat to the egg whites in any given buttercream recipe, you can adjust to your tastes. As a general rule, adjustments up/down up to 15% can be made to most recipes without knocking everything out of kilter.
Equipment: it's important the mixing bowl and whisk beater is dry and free of any oils as oils will keep egg whites from beating to stiff peaks. I generally run mine through the dishwasher or wash with soap and vinegar.
SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM
Yield: icing for 4 layer 8" cake
Ratios:
Egg whites: 1.00 (100%)
Sugar: 1.11
Butter: 2.52
Cream Tartar: scant 1/8 tsp per 30g (1 large egg white)
The classic buttercream ratios (meaning what they teach in culinary classes) is 1 part egg whites, 2 parts sugar, 3 parts butter. As you can see from the recipe I use, I prefer my buttercream with a lot less sugar than the classic buttercream. So there is a lot of wiggle room where you can adjust to your taste.
Temperature:
Butter should be between 70° - 72°. I've used butter up to 75°, but that's pushing it.
Egg whites should be heated to 140° minimum. I heat to 160°
You can use commercially pasteurized egg whites, but you get less volume. They also take a lot longer to whip. If using commercially pasteurized egg whites, bring to 72° minimum before beating.
Equipment
- Stand mixer
- Whisk attachment
- Paddle attachment
- Hand whisk
- Pot large enough to set mixer over
Ingredients
180g/6.25 oz/6 egg whites ( NOT Trader Joe's, see note above)
200g/7 oz/1 cup cane sugar (divided, doesn't need to be exact) (C&H cane sugar)
454g/1 lb butter, preferably 82% butterfat, cut into 2" cubes (Plugra)
3/4 tsp cream of tartar (brand doesn't matter)
1/8 tsp salt (Diamond Crystal)
Method
Fill large pot large enough to hole mixer bowl without the bowl touching the bottom. Fill with a few inches of water. Water should not touch the bottom of mixer bowl. Bring to boil, then reduce to simmer.
Place egg whites, HALF the sugar, salt in mixer bowl. Hand whisk to combine.
Place mixer bowl over simmering water. Whisking continuously to prevent eggs from cooking. Heat egg mixture to a minimum of 140° (I heat to 160°). The sugar will dissolve as the egg whites heat.
With whisk attachment, beat egg mixture on medium speed (kitchenaid #4) for about a minute. Egg whites will be translucent, but very bubbly. Add Cream of Tartar and continue to beat on medium speed another minute, until egg whites begin to turn from translucent to white.
Gradually pour in the remaining sugar.
Increase speed to med-high (kitchenaid #6).
Beat until a quite reach stiff peak. The egg whites will go from dull white to very smooth and glossy. I always watch the ring of egg whites up against the bowl. When that ring looks smooth and glossy, I know the egg whites are ready.
Stop mixer. Replace the whisk with the paddle attachment.
On low speed (kitchenaid #2) begin adding butter, a couple of cubes at a time. Allow the cubes to incorporate a bit before adding additional cubes of butter.
After all the butter has been added, set a timer for eight minutes. Now walk away. The buttercream will probably look like soup. In fact, the minute you begin adding a butter it will deflate. This is perfectly normal. Have faith. Set the timer walk away.
When the timer goes off, you will have a lovely bowl of fluffy white buttercream that is not too sweet.
Flavor as desired
Extracts: Mix in any flavor of extract. I normally use vanilla bean paste.
Chocolate or white chocolate: melt and cool approximately 6-8 oz of quality chocolate. Chocolate should be fluid, but cool. Mix into buttercream.
Purées: with purées, you have to take care as too much can ruin the buttercream. Add small portions at a time. The moisture in purée will vary by fruit, and batch by batch. So don't assume you can add the same amount of purée of the same fruit.
Coloring: buttercream can be resistant to color due to the butter. I would NOT recommend Wilton colors. Americolor gels mixed with a bit of their Flo-coat will create a smooth even colored buttercream. The flo-coat essentially converts the gel color to a food color that can be used in applications where moisture is an issue, like in candy.
So If you don't want to mess with mixing flo-coat and gel color, you can use color labeled for candy.
To make a stiffer more stable buttercream:
Replace a potion of the granulated sugar with powdered sugar. I use 25%, but I know some will take it as high as 40%. You can increase the total sugar by adding powder sugar. As I mentioned above I don't like a sweet butter cream so my ratio is quite low compared to the standard. So you can certainly add additional powdered sugar for stability. You add the powdered sugar after the meringue is beaten but before you add the butter.
You can also replace up to 25% of the butter with high ratio shortening. I would not recommend store shortening has there are no emulsifiers in retail shortening. High ratio shortening is specifically formulated for the baking industry so it contains emulsifiers.
Since it's for the trade, home baker's have to purchase it repackaged into small quantities. If you're interested, check with your local cake decorating shops or online.
Storing:
keeps about 5 days in the refrigerator. I know a lot of people say you can freeze buttercream, but I've never had a lot of luck freezing it so I don't.
After refrigerating it will need to be re-whipped. I leave it on the counter for about an hour and then whip with the paddle attachment on low. It will go through a phase where it looks broken. But again let it mix. It's an emulsion, It'll take a while for it to come back together.